With show season right around the corner, we have seen A LOT of resale posts of garments made by competitors that don’t fit their buyers- with no returns accepted. While we encourage and invite competitors who help benefit the show horse industry find more ways to be affordable- sometimes it’s better to have all the information when working with someone with a bottom dollar price. There will always be someone willing to do the job for less, but knowing how it will effect the quality of the garment can save you from making a costly mistake that will be left sitting in your closet!
Fit:
There are many things that can go wrong when a tailor experienced in outfitting men tries to adapt their pattern for a woman. One of the most common? Boobs, tatas, knockers, yup! Adjusting a men's blazer pattern to lay flat and comfortably over a women’s bust isn’t an easy task. Something as small as this can make the entire jacket fit poorly, making you look like your bust is sagging, or hiked up under your chin, you know- what every woman wants… The bust can be taken in our let out fairly easily (if extra fabric is left in the seams) but adjusting the height of the bust is usually very difficult if not impossible to have tailored to be corrected later on.
We also see problem areas with the sometimes drastic difference between the bust measurement to the waist. Men on average are more square in the torso, with little difference from chest to mid section (or even more A framed built with a wider belly than chest), whereas women are typically more hourglass shaped. This can either mean your bust is way too small to button up, but fits the waist, or the waist is left billowing away from the body making you look boxy.
Other common trouble areas? Men typically have larger necks than women. This can mean that without close attention to this when altering your pattern, you will be left with a collar that sits wide on your neck, gaping away, and pursing open.
The width of the shoulders tends to be another trouble area. When clients are left to measure themselves, the shoulder to shoulder measurement is the most common which I see incorrectly measured. On average 8/10 of our customers measure their shoulders incorrectly, and we always triple check this to be certain. Why? Well the shoulders cannot be altered after construction, and an inch difference can mean either looking like a line backer with shoulder pads that curl over the deltoid muscle, or be so tight up your armpits that your shoulders hunch forward.
Made for Equestrians, by Equestrians:
In our Guide for New Show Rider’s we proudly support and advertise dozens of other sellers and retailers who sell similar products. Why you may ask? Well we believe there’s enough business to go around! When you support a small business a REAL human does a happy dance, and the majority of these real people are also fellow equestrians. If we all lift each other up, we together lift up our industry. All of these businesses in our guide have our stamp of approval for quality and customer service. However, there’s something important about products for equestrians MADE by equestrians- the attention to detail.
Sleeve length and elbow fit for example is an area that would easily be overlooked without the equestrian eye. As equestrian athletes, we are performing a sport while wearing a suit jacket. What this means in terms of tailoring? If not measured correctly, when your arms are in riding position, you may have pinching in the elbows, and sleeves that are suddenly too short exposing your wrists if not taking into account for the task at hand- riding a horse.
Fabric:
It's important to be mindful of the fabric used for a hunt coat. While there are many fancy words and designations to explain fabric content, weight and weave- they can often be simplified to natural fibers (wool, silk, cashmere) and synthetic fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon). While the price of natural fiber fabrics are typically more pricey, the synthetic materials won’t breathe as well or tailor as well- so on a 90 degree show day this could leave you with sweat stains on lighter fabrics, as well as a very hot ride! Not to mention, in a class like an equitation class, where the clean, sharp, lines of the rider are supposed to be highlighted- low quality fabric can pucker, bunch, wrinkle creating a distracting silhouette.
Another benefit to your garments coming from fellow equestrians, is we know breed rules and we follow the current trends. I do my very best to stay on top of the current trends, and be aware of what other riders are wearing in your specific division as well as within your region. I won’t outfit two riders in the same fabric, and I give clients the heads up when purchasing from well known fabric makers which many designers carry and might result in duplicates while trotting into the ring. I go as far as offering one of a kind garments, promising to never reuse the same fabric to avoid getting lost in a deep class.
Ultimately there is always a deal to be found if custom or consignment prices are out of your price range. We 100% understand that hustle, but there are many factors that are calculated into price- some you may not want to compromise on. Going into your decision, armed with all this knowledge will help you feel confident in your purchase and help save you from a costly mistake. As always, should you have any questions about a jacket you’re thinking about purchasing, feel free to reach out! We’ll be happy to look at their design and your build and let you know if we think it’s a good investment. Wether you’re a client of our or not, we’re always here to help! Happy shopping!
-Bethea Alden Phelan
Alden Customs Owner
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